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Grafton, Vermont


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GRAFTON VERMONT'S OLD TAVERN

When the Old Tavern in Grafton, Vermont, opened in 1801 it didn't have television or telephones. Two hundred years later, it still doesn't. Perhaps that's why is has become a favorite getaway for discriminating travelers who want to unwind and relax in a sophisticated, upscale, and ever so bucolic atmosphere.

Grafton, itself, is worth a visit, even if you can't stay overnight. It's one of Vermont's prettiest villages (in a state that has many of them!). I found it to have the kind of storybook atmosphere I usually associate with the more scenic rural villages of England.

There's not a huge amount to do in Grafton, which is part of its charm. You can visit the Grafton Village Cheese Company where you can see Vermont Cheddar being made and taste a sample. You can also visit a working blacksmith's shop, a historical museum (weekends only), or any of several art galleries and crafts shops. Or you can get away from it all by disappearing into the nearby woods. If you are a guest at the Old Tavern, you can also take a dip in a natural "swimming hole" by the edge of a beautiful stream.

The restaurant at the Old Tavern welcomes non guests and is one of Vermont's finest eateries. The menu features traditional New England cooking that uses the freshest of ingredients, beautifully presented in sensible portions. Appetizers and salads range from $7 to $9.50. Entrees range from $23 to $30 with specials sometimes a bit more. Desserts are about $6. Figure $50 to $75 per person without wine (a good selection of American varietals by the bottle or glass). The dishes my wife and I sampled -- a wild mushroom risotto and grilled halibut over vegetable hash -- were superb as were the salads that preceded them.

The Old Tavern has about 50 rooms and suites in its original historic building and in a number of charming houses nearby. (We stayed in room #12, a two-room suite with a four-poster bed and a huge "soaking tub" in the bathroom.) Rates range from $175 to $300 on the weekends, and from $135 to $195 during the week. Rates include a full "country breakfast," which is every bit as much of a gourmet experience as the dinners.

The Old Tavern is happy to work with travel agents and pays 10% commission on departure of the guest. They require an IATA number for commissions (when I mentioned CLIA numbers, I got a blank stare), so you may have to funnel the booking through your host agency.

You can sell the Old Tavern with confidence. The hotel is a member of Historic Hotels of America and has received the blessings of Andrew Harper's "Hideaway Report." The number for reservations is 800-843-1801. The web site, which features "virtual reality" tours of many rooms, is at http://www.old-tavern.com.
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